Micky Walker

第三天我們稱之為火車之旅(始於08:40 AM結束於11:00PM)，因為在一天之中我們把德鐵的各級列車全都坐了一遍，從最高級的 ICE(號稱時速280km媲美日本新幹線磁浮列車)，到連接歐洲各大城的IC/EC，到區域性的RE/RB。當我們從慕尼黑搭上08:40 AM 的火車到達海德堡時，已經接近12:00了，而原訂的計劃是造訪另一個羅曼蒂克大道(Romantic Road)上的小鎮羅騰堡(Rothenburg o.d.t.)，據說它就像是一個從童話故事中蹦出來的小鎮。但每天從海德堡到羅騰堡的公車(車程約1.5小時)只有一班且早在08:00時離開了。如果要搭火車必須換三次車而且耗時五個多小時，因此我們只好被迫更改行程到較近的烏茲堡(羅曼蒂克大道的起點小鎮)。但不幸的事情發生了:因為我們不知如何換車，因此本來要到北邊的法蘭克福，竟然到了南邊某個不知名的鬼地方，而且還被列車長趕下來，因為那是最後一站，全車的人都走光了，只剩我們兩人還在傻傻地等著永遠不會出現的法蘭克福。最後當我們到達烏茲堡時已是6點了。

We call the third day of the journey “train trip” (started from 08:45a.m to 11:00 pm.) because we took all kinds of DB (Deutsche Bahn, German National Railway) in one day. We have bought the GermanRail Pass so we could take ICE (Inter City Express), IC/EC (InterCity and EuroCity ) and RE/RB (Resional Express/ Resional Bahn). We took the 08:45 am train from Munich to Heidelberg. When we arrived in Heidelberg, it was almost 12:00am. We planned to visit another small town, Rothenburg O.D.T., on Romantic Road because it is said that it’s like a real town in fairy tales. Unfortunately, if we took the train to get there, we had to change the train three times and it would take us almost five hours to get there and the only bus had left--- at 8:00 am! We had no choice but changed our plan--- went to another small town, Wurzburg, which is located on the start of >Romantic Road. We were not familiar with the train system and we didn’t know when and where we should changed the train. Therefore, we intended to go to Frankfurt am Main in the north to change the train but arrived somewhere in the south instead. We stayed on the train until the trainman asked us to get off the train at the last stop. We had to take the train back and changed the train again and again. When we got to Wurzburg, it was 6:00 pm. 

第四天我們前往黑森林(Schwarzwald)中的蒂蒂湖(Titisee)並品嘗了著名的黑森林蛋糕(Black Forest Tart)。黑森林意指林中數目繁多茂盛、枝葉蓋天，又瘦又高的針棕樹長滿每座山，林間不見天日，故稱黑森林。蒂蒂湖是黑森林及著名的景點，有”黑森林裡的小巧明珠之稱”。而正宗黑森林蛋糕內加了櫻桃白蘭地、櫻桃果粒，在加上厚厚的鮮奶油，口感濃厚，香氣十足喔！如果你不知道如何點的話，環顧四週看看四周是否有人點用，照著點就對了!很可惜是我們不能在黑森林久待，它是個面積廣大的區域擁有許多景點，就算住上一個星期都不夠呢！

The forth day of our journey is to Titisee in Schwarzwald ( Black Forest) and taste the delicious Black Forest Tart. Why the forest is called “ Black Forest”? Not until we walked into the woods and we couldn’t see the sky did we realize why it’s called “ Black Forest ”. Titisee is a famous scenery spot in Scheartswald. Compared to the broad , it’s more delicate, like a “small pearl”. As for the well-known Black Forest Tart, fresh cherry, cherry brandy and thick cream make the tart more inviting and delicious. What a shame that we don’t have enough time to stay in Schwarzald longer. There are so many scenery spots in this area that staying there for one week is not enough! 

瀏覽完黑森林中的蒂蒂湖後，我們又趕回了海德堡－一個因創作歌手鄭華娟的所寫的海德堡之吻而聞名全台的古城。想當然爾，我們一定會去找尋傳說中創造出”巧克力餅的那間咖啡店(Café Knosel))。Café Knosel 於1863年開張，很快成為當地市民、教授及學生的聚集地。當時到海德堡求學的千金小姐，身旁總是跟著嚴格的教母。在咖啡店裡只能戶拋媚眼無法表達情意。課諾色先生看在眼裡，於是製作了一種特別柔細的巧克力餅，把它命名為”學生之吻”，年輕學子便用它來表達情意。但是當我們到達時已是七點，而店早在六點就關了，滿臉失望的我們只好在門口照相過乾癮。但是奇蹟出現了，好心的老闆娘竟然發現可憐的我們，不但送明信片，還邀請我們入內參觀呢！她還說有許多台灣人都慕名而來，而她也擁有一本海德堡之吻以及一張台灣旅行團與鄭華娟的合照照片喔！我指出照片中的鄭華娟而秋萍則翻開Mook雜誌秀給她看她的照片。老闆娘還很好心地示範如何使用古董收銀機，很像吃角子老虎機，拉拉吧再轉一下把手，收銀機就會打開將錢秀出來。   

. Heidelberg is well-known in Taiwan because a Taiwanese singer once wrote a novel” Kiss of Heidelberg”  according to her marriage life in Heidelberg. It goes without saying that we surely intended to look for the Café Knosel which the writer mentioned in her novel. It is said that Café Knosel is the oldest café inHeidelberg. It was opened since 1863, and it had become the favorite meeting place for the citizen, professors and students. In the early 20th century, Mr. Knosel made a special chocolate cookie “Student’s Kiss” in order to help the students to express their love to young ladies. When we got there, it was 7:00pm but the shop was closed at 6:00 pm. We were disappointed so that we took several photos in front of the shop. To our surprise, the owner showed up and she invited us to come inside the shop with postcards. I was so excited that I burst out” We are from Taiwan!” The owner smiled and said that many Taiwanese people came here out of admiration for the “Student’s Kiss”. She also showed us the photo and the novel “Kiss of Heidelberg” published in TaiwanI pointed out the author on the photo and Gloria showed her the tourist magazine Taiwan with the owner’s photo. She showed me to use the antique cash register. For me, the cash register is like a slot machine: pull the bar and the machine show you the money. 

接下來我們繼續來到了老橋(Karl-Theodor-Brucke)仰望海德古堡。老橋靜靜的跨在涅卡河(Neckar)已經有好幾百年了。涅卡河是萊茵河的主要支流之一，海德堡因這條河更添嫵媚。若要俯瞰整個海德堡的最佳角度，便是沿著對面山丘的哲學家之路( Philosophenweg)蜿蜒而上。為什麼叫做哲學家之路呢？因為這條路的部分路段被灌木叢覆蓋，即使在白天仍然幽暗不見天日，而只要穿過這昏暗隧道，眼前馬上為之一亮，整個海德堡城市都呈現在眼前。德國人說這就是哲學:讓人生路由黑暗走向光明。在山丘上我們還碰到了一對熱心的老夫婦，主動地要幫我們照相，盛情難卻，我們只好被迫接受。老太太還說:「我自己不會照啦，但我先生很厲害。」因此，當老先生也仿造我們爬上小石梯幫我倆拍了一張照片，我們都迫不及待地想看看他的傑作，但…看來還是他太太是他心目中的最佳女主角，兩人的濃情密意令人欣羨。

Following we went to the OldBridge(Karl-Theodor-Brucke) to view  Heidelberg and the whole old town. Karl-Theodor-Bricke has sat on the River Neckar for several hundred years. Nekar is one of the main tributary. Heidelberg owes its beauty to Nekar. If you want to get the best view of the whole Heidelberg, you have to walk alone the Road of Philosophers (Philosophenweg) upward to the top of hill. Why this lane is called “the Road of Philosophers”? After you across Karl-Theodor-Brucke and started to walk upward on Philosophenweg, you have to pass through a dark and narrow lane covered with trees. After the “tunnel”, it become visible all of a sudden and you can get the whole view of  Heidelberg. That’s the German philosophy: from darkness to light. We met a kind and friendly old couple, who came to asked us if we needed someone to help take a photo for us two. The old lady said: “My husband is good at taking photos!” They are so kind that we couldn’t refuse their kindness. The old gentleman climbed up to the stairs like we did just now and took a photo fro us. We couldn’t wait to see his “masterpiece”, but… Well, his wife is still his best leading actress. 

當晚我們有幸住在一間溫馨的小閣樓，它長的就像是卡通中可憐的女主角住的房間，真是可愛到極點害我們都樂透了，還忙著研究閣樓中窗戶及窗簾的構造呢！

We were lucky to stay in a lovely hostel. Our room is in the attic, which reminds us of the poor girl in the cartoon. This is our first time to stay in such a room and we were very excited to look around and pretended to play the role of “poor leading actress in the cartoon”. 



                                                                                              (未完待續 to be continued)